Why do good things never happen to me

So I've had a slight fiasco with my fabrics today. The best thing about my collection was my plan to put the assumption that ethical fabrics aren't very nice to bed. But the company want £134 delivery for £254 of fabric. And it will take a month for delivery. So yesterday in the midst of a panic attack I was thinking about my options and decided to write to Knock On The Door, a company I have mentioned before in this blog. But unfortunately it's more like a competition and they set briefs for you to work to and the winner gets their stuff made. I have joined the mailing list anyway so when they next set a brief I will be submitting my designs.

BUT that still leaves me with the problem of my fabrics. I think I am going to have to go against my values and buy 'normal' fabrics. That someone has literally died to produce and got paid barely anything for. I took a trip to fabric land and what a terrible experience it was. Nothing in there was even close to the quality of my original ethical fabrics. But now that this has happened so late on I can't really afford the time or money to go sourcing in London. So I think I will take a trip to Hansons in Dorset tomorrow and see what that is like, I've heard its huge so fingers crossed. And if that fails, I think I will go up to Cardiff to a couple of fabric shops I know of being good.

The stress is getting to me now, but my sketchbook is going quite well. Although all of the topics within it are quite macabre so it doesn't make for very nice reading. I also have to get it finished 10 days before the official deadline to receive it in time because it's on Blurb. But I really wanted to include my photo shoot and not sure if I will be able to get my outfits done in time. That is my goal though.

There's also loads of other stuff going on so it feels like it's all just happening at once. But thats always the way. One thing after another, but I do feel like I'm taking the bad with the bad. I'm also really frustrated because I feel like I try really hard to get stuff done and to a high standard but others don't care and don't bother, never go in to uni.. how do they still do better than me!? Slightly disheartening but I can only focus on my own work and make sure that what I do is the best it can be.

Fat Face

There is an opportunity for me to do a work placement as an assistant garment tech for a week at Fat Face. I'm really interested to find out exactly what this will entail. The reason I like sewing so much is because I can watch it grow from start to finish. And this is also what a garment tech does but on a larger scale. I'm hoping to start next Monday so will update you on that!

Product Placement Part 2

I was watching 10 o'clock news live today. I do like the programme, and there was a very funny skit on product placement.

Love it or hate it?

Not sure I'm feeling this, I know it won't be like putting marmite on your lips but marmite is so salty. However, I do like the tin.

April Fools!

Presentation is done!

Finally did our group presentations today. I really enjoyed doing mine. A couple of our team members didn't turn up but there was 3 of us. I was worried it was only going to be me for a bit. I think my part went well because I was genuinely enthusiastic about what I had designed, of which I will be putting pictures up of cute animals and their info. Also handed in PPRD, you would think it would be a relief but I really enjoyed writing some of the stuff for it. And it didn't get in the way of any of my other work so I think I'm going to miss it really. But I've still got my blog that I am going to continue with. Might set myself some random topics to write about like the future of british fashion and becoming a fashion pioneer.

Save Our Skills

There is a new campaign called SOS. Drapers even have a whole section dedicated with it in their bookmark bar. So it really is just about promoting the people who actually make the clothes. It seems it's not a very 'cool' job to have and there is a huge gap in the market. Great for me as a seamstress! But not so good for, well, just the UK in general. In the 1960s our textile industry was booming. Hopefully we can get it back to that stage. Loads of important people are getting on board though. Burberry are offering internships, Clarks shoes are bringing manufacture back. Sir Phillip Green is talking about doing the same which would be amazing as he owns Arcadia. Even Sir Alan Sugar is on about creating incubator factories. All of which is incredibly exciting for me! And the industry of course.

Group Presentation

Today we were supposed to do our group presentation but it got cancelled. I was really looking forward to doing it although I am worried I've forgotten everything I am supposed to say because we went through it so long a go. It has been rearranged for Monday but someone said that we aren't going to be marked on it anymore. But my group did all of our work in a sketchbook and on boards. Of which I've already handed in so can't take any photos to put on here. I'm a bit worried about the marking of it but the teachers know what their doing so I guess it'll be fine. I'm probably just displacing my stress. I will put pics of my designs up though because my little creatures were so cute, and they had product information and everything.

Collection Fabrics

Today I was really looking forward to sitting down with Karen and getting her to go through my swatches with me. She is a bit of an eco freak like me so I knew she would be interested in my fabrics. She mentioned wanting to have a look at them in my toile review. She asked me today if she could have a look at them and of course I said yes and asked her if she could come and help me afterwards. Unfortunately she gave them to another student to look at who now wants to use the fabrics that I'm using in my collection. I know I should be really happy that they are using ethical fabrics, but they don't care that their ethical. It's not like they will be adopting a new ethical outlook on life. Their justification for now using ethical fabrics is absurd. One of the nice things about my collection is that I'm banishing the myth that ethical fabric is dowdy and all of my fabrics are completely different to everyone else in the class. I spent days trawling through sites searching desperately for ethical fabrics. At one point I was genuinely contemplating growing bamboo. Until I realised that was a ridiculous idea. To me it seems a bit unfair I put all this work in finding the fabrics, e-mailing countless companies and trying to think of different ways to reuse fabrics, get off cuts and end of rolls, had over a month of hassle trying to get the fabrics once I found them and now someone has come a long and got all of my hard work for free.

On the plus side I know which fabrics I'm having for what designs. But when Karen went through my fabrics with me she had already been through all of my fabrics so wasn't as excited as she might have been looking through them for the first time.

2nd Toile Review

After the last review I was really worried about this one. But it was fine. I think the tutors might have just been in a much better mood. I made up a new leg of my hurricane trousers that only has 7 pleats instead of the original 24. Everyone but Jody preferred the new ones but I've decided to stay true to myself and do the outrageous ones. I've got a few bits of fit to change but will hopefully be ordering my fabric next week.

Fabric Samples

I finally got my fabric samples today. I paid £30 and ordered them over a month a go. After a million e-mails, each slightly ruder than the last they are here. Although I did have to pay £13 because they didn't pay the postage! You would have thought spending £30 on samples probably means I will be spending a lot on fabrics so would expect good customer service. As you should really expect of you're paying any money for anything. But the samples are beautiful!!!

BP Oil Spill

I found this very controversial shoot in Italian Vogue today. There was a lot of uproar about them making money from such a terrible disaster, and the photos are quite graphic considering. But everything is art these days. It would have been nice if they donated a portion of the profit to the cause. I do like them though. What do you think?

Ethereal Fashion

I realised today that I haven't really included anything about my Ethereal Fashion mini business. Over the summer following my work placement I decided to start making and selling garments. I made a page on facebook and have 140 people who 'like' it. And even more people who view it on a regular basis. It's been on hold whilst I've been back at uni but it's almost time for me to start it up again which I'm really excited about. Before I just made really simple summer dresses. But this time round I'm going to take an American Apparel approach to it. Keep it simple, like hoodies and oversized t shirts but have everything in loads of colour options and do some real photo shoots for them. If you want to check it out it's Ethereal Fashion.

Dior Sacks Galliano

Well apparently my previous blog about Galliano is completely wrong. It was said that last year he did the same thing to other people in the same bar. But these people recorded him doing it.

My Ideal First Job

Assistant Sample Machinist

Employer            The Higher End of Fashion
Posted                  08 Mar 2011 
Location              South West
Position Type      Permanent
Job Function      Technical - Sample Machinist
Sector                  Womanswear
Position               Sample Machinist
Salary                  £15 - 20 000


The company is an established ethical ladies fashion retailer. We make the samples for many high end retailers including Burberry and Lanvin. But also create our own garments to sell in smaller boutiques, including wedding gowns.

Your Role will be to sew together the pieces once our flawless pattern cutter has cut them out. You will need to advise the pattern cutter of any problems whilst making. Also need to make alterations to the garments and finishing methods. And work closely with the garment technologist and designer to ensure all the garments needs are being met.

You need to have experience in sewing and be confident to make up the first sample. Basic knowledge of materials would be beneficial but will be provided in on the job training. Good communication skills are essential. Must be familiar with industrial sewing machines, overlockers and heat press. The main qualities we need are passion and enthusiasm as there will be someone to help you should you get stuck. We want someone to become our protege to train up and turn into the next Temperly.

Useful fashion sites

Fashion Monitor:

It provides contacts, news and events in fashion and beauty. I would say it focuses towards PR and marketing. It can mainly keep you up to date with the world of fashion including jobs.

Mintel:

Is a research site. It conveys statistics and all sorts of information. This information is aimed to be used to form intelligent decisions within the industry to ensure you are making the right decisions at the right time. It is great for putting real evidence into research.

Companies House:

Is all about companies, starting or closing your own and general help. It also keeps a record of all companies and makes the information accessible to the public. This is useful if you want to research a particular company or start up your own.

Drapers Record:

Is a weekly magazine with all of the gossip from the fashion world. It’s like a who’s in who’s out, who’s making profit who’s not. It includes a good jobs section and is well worth the weekly read to really keep you in the know.

Fashion career websites and agencies can also be used to find jobs. The difference between the two is that agencies are someone you approach to find you a job. You would give them a CV and they would actively seek out a job for you. Whereas a fashion career website would enable you to scroll through job advertisements from employers and possibly upload your CV for potential employers to look at.

Wedding Fair

Today I went to a wedding fair at the Cumberland hotel. I wanted to go for my essay and to get a better idea of the wedding scene. It was no BBEH (British Bridal Exhibition Harrogate) but was still quite good. There wasn't as many bridal gowns as I had hoped for, only 2 stalls. But I got to eat cake and got some fliers for other bridal stuff which may come in handy.

Prague

Yesterday I got back from Prague. It was a great trip. It was so beautiful and detailed right down to the lamp posts. Everything thing had been thought about individually and so much care and attention to detail had been placed in everything.
A very quick summary of my time there:
<3 Tour of Prague
<3 Went out for James' birthday
<3 Market
<3 The best zoo known to man
<3 Prague's fashion uni
<3 All you can drink bar crawl, which in retrospect was probably a bad idea.





   

John Galliano suspended by Dior

Well according to numerous reports Galliano allegedly made antisemitic remarks to a Jewish woman and her Asian boyfriend in a french bar. He has been accused of calling the woman "Dirty Jewish face, you should be dead" and "Fucking Asian bastard, I will kill you". He allegedly repeatedly called the woman "ugly" and a "slag". Personally I'm not feeling it. A police source said something about it being because of the stress with it being so close to Gallianos Dior and own label shows, but what do they know about how Galliano is feeling? He was briefly arrested and found to be just over the legal limit. Meaning he was almost able to drive so I don't think it would of been a drunken act. Speculation of course but I don't think he did anything. 

The Junction Boutique

So today I have been contacted by The Junction Boutique. They have seen my Ethereal Fashion page on facebook and asked if they can profile me on their website. They only have about 10 designers on there at the moment so it's all very exciting for me. Especially as I finish uni in a couple of months and after that plan on setting up my own studio and making things for the asos boutique and similar companies.

I started looking into Knock On The Door which is promoting ethical and sustainable fashion. So I will enquire there as well as I firmly believe that one day all clothing will be sustainable. Knock On The Door is linked with Fashion Capital who I worked for over the summer. Only thing is you don't need to make the garments which for me, is why I design clothes.

Wedding Facts

I was having a little look at information on opening up my own bridal shop. There is loads of stuff on it, apparently everyone wants to open a bridal shop. Usually a lot of competition would worry me, but if I was to open up my shop in Swindon then I think being close to a lot of other bridal shops would bring more people in. And of course my bridal shop would be better than all the other shops.

While I was looking at bridal stuff I found a few random wedding facts:

The longest train was 200 meters long in China.
Britney Spears was only married to Jason Alexander for 56 hours.

Sit Temulji Nairman was married to Lady Nariman, when they were five years old. The marriage lasted for 86 years.
Apparently Wednesday is the best day to get married according to English tradition. Monday is for wealth and Tuesday is for health.
James Burgess and his wife Sarah Ann currently hold the record for the longest married British couple, their marriage lasted 82 years.

In 1840 Queen Victoria started the Western world's love of white wedding dresses. Before then, brides simply wore their best dress.

30,000 people attended a Jewish wedding in Jerusalem in 1993.

The most expensive wedding took place in Dubai for a Sheik's son. The wedding cost over £22 million and included a purpose-built stadium.

In 2000, the average bride was 24 years old and the average groom was 28.

The ancient tradition of bridesmaids dressing the same as each other and in similar style to the bride is because it was believed that evil spirits have a more difficult time distinguishing which one is the bride and putting a hex on her.

1st Toile Review

I was suitably worried for my review. And apparently with good reason. I like my designs and thought the amount of work I had done for the review was a lot more than a few others, not naming any names. But I was ready to have a little cry by the end of it. Also didn't really take anything away from it apart from they didn't like it. If I could come in tomorrow and know exactly what to do I could just crack on with it and that would be fine but they really didn't like anything. They might of liked my flood dress because they didn't say anything about it. But who knows. The main problem I face now, is my pièce de résistance, being my hurricane trousers were not appreciated in any way. So now I have to decide if I want to make them plain and boring or keep them insane with their 99 pattern pieces. I think I will keep them my way. We are always told to make things bigger and better for the catwalk. But I feel like they are trying to make me commercialise it. I'm sure the teachers would disagree with that statement though!

Exhibitions

Trash Fashion

Yesterday me, Lauren and Miss Bing went to London to see some exhibitions. We had a great weekend! As we are all poor students we had to really make the most of going to London as it would be a struggle to be able to go again. And make the most of it we did. We went to MacCulloch & Wallis had a feel of some fabrics and naturally I headed straight to the buttons. Then we headed to the Science Museum for Trash Fashion: Designing Out Waste. That was a really good one for me with my Ethical Frontier project (the name of my professional project). 


After there we went to GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity. That was my fav exhibition I've ever been to, I thought it was fantastic. I took one photo before I got told off of a selection of wigs. 

Art Fashion Identity

We also watched a film of Yoko Ono that has stuck in my mind. Not too sure why but here it is.

Finally we went to see Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion. I didn't think this one was as good but the designs were still amazing. Pattern cutting really isn't my thing and the work that must have gone in to them is unfathomable. At first it looked really quite small but it was actually huge. We watched about 3 films on Japanese designers. I might of had a little nap through one after our hectic day of running around London but they were really interesting! Definitely the best bit of the exhibition.

UK manufacturing is reborn

I read Drapers every day. I set it to my homepage so that whenever I go on the internet I have to look at it. Today has rekindled my love for Drapers. Sometimes it gets a bit boring as I'm not that bothered about whose making what profit at this stage in my career. However, the best article I've ever read that was basically written for me! It's quite a long article, but the summary is, they are wanting to bring manufacture back to the UK as it's getting too expensive over seas. So my career as a seamstress is looking even more likely. If you want to read the full article it's called UK manufacturing is reborn.
Here are some stats taken from their website.

30%

Average growth in orders at one UK manufacturer over the past 12 months

“People want to get their clothes produced in England. Retailers are going to come back because they are not happy with the quality from overseas.”

Maggie Apostolou, manager of clothing manufacturer Arenco in Leyton, east London

70

Number of people recruited by one UK manufacturer in the past 12 months

“I would recruit more but there are no apprenticeships which teach true manufacturing skills.”

Mark Purcell, manager of supplier Yusuf Menswear in Birmingham

30%

Average growth predicted for the next 12 months at one UK manufacturer

“We’re growing… we’ve increased our customer base dramatically.”

Tony McNulty, managing director of ATF Textiles, Stafford

£943

Minimum pay per annum for a textile worker in China

SOURCE: Drapers’ straw poll of UK manufacturers

Second Look Into Fur Farming

I had another look into the fur issue. Boy have my views changed. PETA are always branded extremists, but I watched one of their videos and it nearly made me cry. I don't recommend watching it. It's sickening that people can do this in the first place, but for there to be no laws against it just astounds me. So I signed PETA's fur free pledge. I've never owned fur and I never will.

The Story of Stuff

The Story of Stuff

Fur Farming

Today I watched Kill It, Skin It, Wear It, a channel 4 documentary aired last year. I thought it would be a good start to my fur research but they avoided all of the series issues related with fur for fashion. The whole thing was 'fluffy' and they painted over the few major issues raised with rainbows and fur in tact kittens. I think PETA will be my next port of call. But it's impossible to know who is telling the truth. You can from one extreme to the other. I think at the end of the day it's down to your morals. I eat meat, although I wish I had the will power to be a vegetarian. But they will never stop killing animals for meat and they could be killed just as inhumanely if not more so than animals harvested for the fur trade. But I'm all for organic and sustainable materials.

Usually the argument for the killing of animals is 'pest control' but can nature take care of itself?

 How can I care so much about who is making my clothes and the pesticides that go into the earth and be unsure of whether or not killing 100 chinchillas for one coat is wrong. Obviously it is wrong. More research is needed I think.

M&S Plan A

Even M&S are on the eco-friendly band wagon. This is a really nice little video of everything they are doing to try and make their company greener. With a company as big as them trying to make a difference it really shows how far being ethical has come. I think it's safe to say the green trend is no longer just passing through.

White Gold - The True Cost of Cotton

I've been watching a lot of videos like this, but this one is great. It's won a couple of awards and is really informative. I had no idea how bad cotton was until I started researching it.

White Gold - the true cost of cotton from Environmental Justice Foundation on Vimeo.

Ethical Fashion Network

Another brilliant website to check out. The Ethical Fashion Network is a website trying to bring together all aspects of the ethical fashion industry. It's somewhere you can go where everything you might need to create, buy or source ethical clothing, materials, makers and designers can all be found under one handy eco roof. They also have a part of their website that is a social networking site. Much like Facebook you can add like minded friends, appeal for help or advice. It really is a great site to look at if you're interested in ethical fashion. And if you wear clothes, you should be.

Fast Fashion

I thought it might be a good idea to find out a bit more of what the general public knows about the clothes they buy. I hope this Fast Fashion Questionnaire will make people think about their clothes and what they are buying. I think I will have a think about the questions and try and ask people outside of Primark for their views. Please feel free to answer the questions, there's only 9 and they're multiple choice.

Ethical Fashion Seminar

Today we had a seminar on ethical fashion. I had already decided to do ethics for my Professional Project so when the poster went up for it I knew it would be perfect. And it was. I found out loads of interesting stuff that I can use in my project.

I like the idea of making a whole collection out of bamboo, it's so soft! I got a card off one of the lecturers who said she could give me a list of companies who I might be able to get off cuts of end of line fabric from. I've always been into ethics, but now I've realised that if I don't go for that within my career then I will have to adapt at some point. Because I genuinely believe ethical fashion is the future and will become the norm. Thinking back to how far we have come since coffee wasn't fair trade and plastic bags were never reused goes to show how far ethical fashion has the potential to evolve.

I decided to film Jodie today making cuffs and plackets. 

Natural Disaster

I finally started my research properly today. I wasn't really sure where to start but once I did it led me on to so many other things. I have decided within ethics I am going to go down a natural disaster route and global warming made worse by dyes and pollution. I'm going to base my final collection garments around this and try to portray a natural disaster through them. Whilst they are going to be completely ethical.

Twitter.. A wonderful thing

Today I received a message from The Green Stylist on Twitter.

Hi Gemma, thanks for the follow. Where is AUCB? I am putting together a high-end line this year and looking for sample makers - Jules

I think she might be from San Francisco but I wrote her back saying I'm in the UK and she asked me to drop her an email to arrange a time to skype and 'discuss our current projects'.

Well after I said I joined Twitter to make contacts I'm pretty happy about this!

Corsetry Workshop

Today we made corsets using a couture method. We got paper and wrapped it up in sellotape. We had to ensure it was super tight to the stand, and then we drew on our design lines. Sounds pretty simple but I think my biceps are bigger now, it was quite hard work. I learnt a few random bits and bobs about corsets, like apparently you should wear a corset 2 times smaller than your dress size.

Creative Pattern Cutting

So we did some creative pattern cutting. I'm not really into pattern cutting and wasn't looking forward to this workshop at all but I had a great time! I made this cowel type thing, but it can be placed anywhere on a garment.

Corsets

Today we made corsets. I had already very recently done this so a bit of a refresher session was nice. I boned the bodice sewing the boning directly to the seam allowance on one half. And on the other half used the casing where you slide the boning in. Initially for the exercise we were making two half bodices to demonstrate these two different ways of boning. I ensured my two halves were two opposite halves so they could be sewn together. But this is why the fabrics are half and half.

First Day Back

Christmas is over and it's back to the sewing machine. We made pockets today and were eased in nicely after our month off. For me it was great because as you know I love sewing. We made two pockets and were going to make a third but I was the only one who wanted to stay so we all just went home. It has really got me in the mood for sewing so I'm going to collate some ideas for the new brief on paper to take in on friday, and then I'm going to make something.

Jeans Pocket

3D Pocket

Ralph and Russo Internship

I read that Ralph and Russo are offering internships with a view to get hired afterwards. Only problem is I think it's aimed to people already graduated so I would have to take quite a lot of time off uni. I'm not really sure I will have time to fit it in. They are so elite you have to have a 'couture number' just to get into their site. They've made some really nice stuff though and the internship is all about pattern cutting and construction so would be ideal for me.

The 5 Year Plan

I have been trying to figure out my five year plan for the last 2 months. Possibly longer than that. But after numerous options including 'full time blogger - literally kill me' I think I have finally figured out what I want to do with my life. 

Firstly I have accepted if I want to do what I love I will have to move to London. So that is the plan once I finish uni.

In 6 months finish uni.

Be living in London within 1 year - this gives me 6 months to save and continue getting some experience in Swindon. I really don't want to run out of money because I can't get a job and have to move back home.

Lack of experience means I may have to get an internship and work in a bar or something as well. Aim to get a job with the work experience - probably the easiest way in. Do work experience for 3 months max.

Try and get a semi decent job like previous work experience at Fashion Enter. Work there for 1-2 years.

After you have got some good experience start applying for couturier jobs - Ralph and Russo are currently looking for interns so may be more likely to take me on with slightly less experience. Work there for 3 years.

In 5-6 years move to Paris to work in a French Fashion House on their couture range. No RTW for me.

Exhibitions

I've been having a look into exhibitions to visit. I've never really taken an interest in exhibitions before but there are some on at the moment that look really good, I just need to figure out when I can fit them in.
The first one I want to go see is:

GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity

2 December 2010 – 30 January 2011

The exhibition examines how artists and designers use clothing as a mechanism to communicate and reveal elements of our identity. The exhibition includes work by 30 leading international practitioners and is divided into four sections:

Storytelling	Building
Belonging and confronting	Performance

On the same day as I visit this I am going to travel over to Somerset House to see Matthew Williamson.



Apparently it includes his working sketches and moodboards as well as his work and I find that very appealing.






Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion
15 October 2010 - 6 February 2011
Barbican Art Gallery


I think that like Japanese fashion this exhibition will be a bit weird and wonderful. But who can pass up an opportunity to see Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe when they are all so conveniently placed under one roof.